Meeting Aloyse

I awoke quite anxious this morning - today I was going to finally meet my sponsored child. When I innocently filled out my direct debit form all those years ago filled only with a sense of "doing something worthwhile," little did I realise that it would eventually lead me to Senegal and meeting my child personally. And here I was, checking that I had all that I needed: new school bag, football kit donated by Angus's school, pens, pencils, rubber, some World Vision bits and pieces, pressie for Mum? Check, all there.

Off we went in the van, firstly to a local primary school to collect a boy

The welcome group shelling peanuts.

sponsored by another lady in our group. She left with him and went to his family's compound where she was greeted by the entire family and extended family and a few friends thrown in as well. The rest of us stayed at the school and looked around the village. After a while the children came out of class for playtime. Out came the football, out came the child in all of us. I don't know if the school has ever had such a crazy game of football: four middle-aged (should I really call myself that? Help!) white women with about 60 small children, no clearly defined teams, a swing set goal at one end

Hunt the missing child. What can you do? Not much but stand around and feel a bit awkward.

and two canes at the other. I am not entirely sure what the rules were. It appeared that you decided what goal you wanted to score in and tried to get the ball there somehow. Anybody getting the ball in any goal was cheered enthusiastically and the main risk appeared to be kicking too much dust at other players. Children were falling over, being tripped over, kicked, all good naturedly and no body seemed to get hurt, maybe as only half of them were wearing shoes, and those that were only had flip flops.

With mouths full of dust and loud waves goodbye, we left and drove to Aloyse's compound. We had already driven a long way off the main road and now we went even further into the scrub. The road my this stage was just a dust track. It would be impassable in the rainy season. There were dusty areas being ploughed in preparation for the rains, numerous Baobab trees, wandering cattle, goats and donkeys.

Best clothes but not sure what to say or do. Neither of us do. Smiling is good though

!

Finally we turned down an even smaller track and came across and rickety fence: Aloyse's compound wall. It was clear that his compound were quite poor. We walked between some huts and came across the centre of the compound: a tree under which sat some women and small children shelling nuts. They were poorly dressed and clearly had to make choices on the priorities of water usage. They were expecting us but nuts still had to be shelled. The WV staff went to Aloyse's hut but at first they couldn't find him. We waited for a bit and then he walked over: he had gone to the well to wash and change into his best clothes. Judging by the way the rest of his family were dressed I would suggest that they had bought or borrowed his clothes especially. He had clearly made an effort to look his best.

The welcome group grew bigger.

The official photo with his family

He loved his football kit. Ben, he got yours!

Foundations of the new house.

Needless to say, he was very nervous and shy. He didn't know what the rules and expectations were of this visit and neither did the adults. He had no agenda. Other compounds had planned what to do - this group were unsure. I just went blank. I hadn't planned what to do if the expectation lay on me. We stood there, greeted one another, he couldn't look me in the face. I was flummoxed. Writing letters a couple of times a year doesn't build enough of a rapport to meet in person. Some adults brought chairs over and more women from the community came over. I was introduced to his parents, brothers and little sister who had been standing back watching. One of the ladies poured the peanuts out of her bowl and into another, turning the empty bowl over and making the inevitable drum. The singing and dancing began. I tried to talk with Aloyse asking him about school, friends, his family, but it was all a bit too much for him. We exchanged presents and his face lit up with a beautiful smile at the sight of the football kit. He loved his pencils and the new bag. His Mum was cheered by the other ladies as she unwrapped a shawl I had bought in Gambia. I was presented with a lovely piece of fabric to wear as a skirt. One of the elder ladies in the village thought that she ought to show me how to wear it, miming how to put it on. Okay, I thought, lets break the ice a bit. I stood up, handed her the fabric, raised my arms and presented myself to her. She rose to the challenge wrapping the fabric around me and tucking it in much to the delight of the other ladies. The drumming began and she danced for me so, naturally, I had to join in. To my surprise, Aloyse did too! A huge beam of joy across his face and we danced with each other. Wonderful.

Into his house past the cement pot.

He then told me that his Dad was building a new house. Could he show me? Of course. We went through the village and I saw where he lived. His hut was of rough mud bricks with a thatched roof. The space between the two was filled with old clothes and fabric. We went through the fabric door into their entire house, a room smaller that my son's bedroom. In there was a double bed with a mattress made of, what? Straw? Dried grass? I am not sure but it was hard and lumpy. The mat on the floor next to the bed was where Aloyse slept with his brothers and sister and probably the two small goats that were in there too. There was one chest of drawers. That's it. I don't know where they cooked. No bathroom. No toys.

Their new house being built after a long time saving and some good harvests, is about the size of our lounge.

This is about the sum total of Aloyse's current house

With the village elder.

We left after the village elder greeted us thanking me for helping Aloyse and praying for my family. I was honoured and humbled to be spoken to with so much respect, to be elevated to a status of benefactor. How do you deal with that change in role? How do you deal with the material differences? How do you go back to "normal life" knowing that normality is so relative? I am going back to a house which has spare rooms and a garden with so much space we can play at growing crops and still have space for the children to play. We have so much and he has crops his family depend and rely on and 4 goats meaning that his family are better off than some. And yet in many ways his community is so much richer than many families in Britain. The children have so many adults who care for them, love them, spend time with them, keep them company, involve them. They aren't sat in front of a t.v. for hours and ignored; they aren't treated as an inconvenience or bought off with material possessions disguising the lack of attention and priority. They may own little, but I bet they don't spend evenings or even days feeling alone, bored, unwanted. Richness comes in more ways than money can buy.

"Do  not store up riches for yourself where moth and rust destroy and theives break in and steal. Instead store up riches in heaven... for where your treasure is, there your heart will be also."

If you ever see my heart moving let me know.

Ambassador Trip Day Two

“Okay,” you are saying, “but what happened to Day One?”

I was far too tired to write anything, that's what happened. I arrived safely in Dakar on Sunday, as I said, and yesterday we visited with World Vision Senegal Head Office in Dakar, an easy five minute walk from where we are staying. We were invited to join with the staff for their weekly devotions and then informed about the work of WV Senegal: how it is organised, what projects they are running, and so on. It was fascinating and you could see us all gradually starting to realise the difference child sponsorship makes. We were all buzzing with excitement at the end of the various talks and eager to get started. After a quick site-seeing trip around Dakar, followed by lunch, we began the long and hot trip south to nearer the Area Development Project (ADP) where most of us sponsor our children. I must confess that I slept most of the way having not slept much the night before!

 We arrived up a bumpy track to the most amazing hotel – more like a resort. We each have separate rooms arranged to look like an African compound complete with thatched roof. There is a swimming pool and access to a beach. I must admit that my first thought was, “Oh my goodness, this is totally out of my budget. I need to stay somewhere else,” until I was informed that as a WV group they have slashed our rates. Phew. Check out the web site for the Saly Princess

Today we began the visit in earnest and I think we have all returned to the hotel emotionally on a high and physically exhausted. We left at 7.30 this morning for an hour's drive to the ADP where we were met by every dignitary in the area I think, including the village chief, Regional Council President and the MP. They all joined in a discussion with us explaining how they all work together with World Vision setting targets and implementing them. We were all particularly impressed with the sophistication of the area report produced by the council showing their development targets for the next year. The village chief explained how WV had made an impact on his village (“I like World Vision because when they say they will do something they always do. We can rely on them and we trust them.”) and the local Head Teacher who explained that as the school now has a roof and refurbished rooms he has a much greater pupil number of pupils staying on at school.

The Guard of Honour

The two boys on the right of the picture are the Prime Minister and President of the school council

Lots of bottom wiggling and drums. The ladies playing the drums get their noise by having empty bullet cases over their fingers. Yes, really.

 After this we were taken to a local preschool. To be honest, this is where it all hit home for us. Before we even got out of the bus we could hear drums and singing and there was a guard of honour of pupils at the school gate wearing Senegal colour sashes. We were paraded in and the singing reached an almost deafening crescendo. There was a large marquee full of women with the musicians; we stopped to watch the dancing for a while. Inside the preschool all the small children were sitting perfectly in rows. They sang for us, their teacher taught them a new song, we saw sketches and dances. The children do mostly rote learning and that was evident, but so was their joy at having us there although some seemed overwhelmed. The whole community had come out to honour us and the work that WV do. It was so humbling to realise that a small amount of my time to fill out a direct debit form leading to a figure on my bank statement each month helped to create this, life changing chances at education for so many small children.

Some of the children were a bit overwhelmed and bored by the lengthy displays of learning, but they didn't move from their places even a little bit. Impressive.

Sharon the Ambassador coordinator from World Vision being honoured by the mothers in the village and she hadn't even made her speech yet!

A lot of the children wanted to come and have their photos taken so that they could see them on your camera screen. As soon as they look at the camera they stop smiling and look serious.

Some children from the Secondary school proudly showing their school text books and exercise books to Jane, one of the sponsors and ambassadors on the trip.

After many, many speeches interspersed with more dancing, more singing, speeches about speeches and the presentation of a new ambulance to the area, we had lunch: a moment of calm. Afterwards we were taken to a health clinic where children are assessed and treated for malnutrition. There isn't a lot of that within the area, it is mostly due to early weaning and inappropriate food being given to small children. Nevertheless, they still need support and the mums still need educating. The programme works well and the health of the children improves.

A peer support worker demonstrating how to measure a child for malnutrition. The baby on her back has just breastfed and is now fast asleep, even upside down.

Naturally, the community had to come out and thank and honour us: more speeches (short), lots of singing and lots of drums and lots of dancing only this was different:

there was a man in the crowd orchestrating the whole thing.

His plan was quickly discovered by the women who co-operated enthusiastically. One by one a lady was pointed at and one of us was indicated. The lady stood up, the drumming increased, the lady danced over (dancing here involves leaning over, sticking out your bottom, rhythmical foot stamping and wiggling of arms and shoulders), then she made her way across the dance area, stood in front of one of us, danced for us and then we were grabbed and pulled onto the dance floor! Clapping, shouting, that strange tongue waggling cry, hands and arms waving and we were cheered. It was amazing fun and every body loved it.

First you are danced at and grabbed then..

You dance, much to everyone's delight!.

As I said, a busy day and emotionally charging. Two of our group visited their sponsored children today and both had tears in their eyes recounting their tales. Tomorrow I will visit Aloyse, the ten year old boy I sponsor, and I am a little teary just thinking about it. I will tell you what happens tomorrow night. Undoubtedly it will be even more emotional than today. Sleep well.

Sometimes the speeches go on a bit too long... but could you imagine this much colour walking down a British High Street?

In Senegal

I arrived in Senegal today. I was sad to leave behind my friends, especially knowing that I may not see them for a long time and possibly never again in Gambia. However, I was excited to start this next part of my trip.

Again I was concerned about arriving in Dakar on my own. I had been told that I would be met at the airport by World Vision but that had sounded a bit vague. I didn't know quite what I would do if there wasn't anyone there and wasn't confident that there would be. Again I prayed and again I just knew that whatever happened it would all work out.

I got on the plane - free seating. I saw that everyone had sat with one person at the window and one in the aisle seat. There were few enough passengers to do this so I walked down the plane with my eye on the next free seat and sat down next to...

A World Vision staff worker from Sierra Leone on his way to Mali.

He was wonderful and we had a chat about the work of World Vision, naturally, and sponsored children in particular. We arrived in Dakar, I went to one passport queue and he went in the Africa queue. My queue was particularly slow and his wasn't so by the time I arrived at baggage he was gone and I was disappointed. I collected my bag, walked out hoping to see my name on a board as there was for many other passengers.

Nothing. No sign of WV anywhere, either my fellow passenger or for me.

I walked outside the airport still hopeful and there he was. Waiting. He smiled and waved me over.

"There was nobody waiting for you so I came to see if there was anyone outside but I was told by that man there (pointing to the taxi rank manager of sorts) that there was a WV taxi but as our plane was late (by half an hour) it left. I will see what I can do."

And he did. Eventually he found a WV staff member waiting somewhere else at the airport for a group of 20 delegates for a meeting and between them they got me a taxi and sent me on my way. Wonderful.

So here I am, rested, showered, fed and the remainder of the group have just arrived via Spain. Tomorrow morning we will walk to the WV office which is five minutes away to meet and greet. We will be doing a lot of meeting and greeting this week. Then we will drive to the hotel nearer to the development areas to see the results of our sponsorship.

I am very excited. 

Wonderfully and Beautifully Made

Tomorrow I am leaving Gambia. I have had a wonderful week and will be sorry to say Goodbye to many people and things. I have been encouraged by the warmth that I have seen in people, the challenges they face on a daily basis just to survive and put food on the table. When you add to that the pressures faced by those who have chosen to follow Christ and not Mohammed, you have a whole new dimension of complication.

Part of the wonderful memories I will take must be the amazing wild life I have seen. I didn't realise before I came that Gambia is known for its birds and I can see why! I haven't managed to take many blog-worthy bird pictures as that would have required a lot more time, commitment and a better camera! I do, however, have some.

Here are a few of my best – enjoy Angus! The jelly fish was caught just for you.

Velvet berries. The monkeys love them.

Vultures. The local garbage service!

Hyenas live in Gambia although this one was in a park. I haven't seen any in the wild.

Cows graze loose all over Gambia. These are grazing in the grassy remains of a pool made during the rainy season, which is still two months away.

The last few pink grapefruits.

This is on its side! No idea what it is, but it is about 8 feet tall and beautiful.

This tree has masses of vine like things hanging down and covering the trunk. Some of the vines look like they have grown into the soil to feed the tree. Any ideas what it is?

Termite mounds are everywhere. The termites are a pain and eat into people's houses, eat their books, eat their food, their crops, their fences, in fact, anything they can get their tiny little jaws into. 

A parasitic fig tree. The fruits aren't even edible and it kills the palms it grows up in the process.

Wild, untameable - my sleep nemesis. Samba climbing up my mosquito netting at 6 in the morning screaming for food.

Baobab trees. They are described as looking "upside down" like the roots are in the air. They produce an amazing fruit which makes a very refreshing drink.

I have seen several different lizzards but this one sat still long enough for a photo.

Red columbus monkeys.

Some kind of martin maybe?

A black kite. They were hunting for fish over the River Gambia

Fish eagles were also looking for dinner.

Wading birds of some description. Ideas?

Fruit bats.

A jelly fish!

Pelicans. There were several pairs swimming around.

Noisy, chatty, sociable.

There are here too. Beware!

Goodbye Gambia - hello Senegal.

Cooking Gambian Style

How to Cook Plasas

Karen and I were invited to eat lunch with a good friend called Mariama. Mariama is currently eight months pregnant much to everyone's delight, so we accepted on condition that we were allowed to help.

First buy your ingredients. Mariama phoned Karen with a list of ingredients most of which Karen knew but there some animated conversations at the market. I noted with interest that Mariama didn't give Karen amounts, quantities, or volumes. Karen had to buy 10 delasis of ….., 15 delasis of....., a delasis being the local currency. There are 50 to the pound. We eventually found what was needed although we weren't sure as it does help if you actually remember to bring the the shopping list with you.

Next take the ingredients to Mariama's house. This involved a trek out of the village and across some open ground in very hot weather (even the Gambians are complaining at the moment, so I feel justified in saying that.)

Draw all the water you need from your well. Light your fire.

Then bone the fish. I didn't get a picture of this as my hands were so disgusting and smelly as the fish had been smoked. Just let me tell you that there are stories in Gambian folk law about the amount of bones in a Caaloo – they make sardines look positively unsupported!

Whilst you get your Toobab friends to do the least favourite job, wash the rice and put on to boil. Once the rice is cooked remove to your charcoal burner to keep warm and, while they are doing the next pair of fish, boil shredded green veg in plenty of water. Throw in two bitter tomatoes and two whole chillis to cook with the green leaves. Simmer for about 20 minutes to cook the green leaves.

Once the Toobabs have finally finished filleting six fish, get them to pound dried chilli and one onion. Add this to the green veg. Mix peanut butter (unsweetened ground peanuts) with water and add this as well to the green veg. Add two cups of palm oil. Mix in your fish. Leave to reduce for 20 minutes.

Karen's pounding needed a bit of expert improvement.

Adding the fish.

Season to taste with two stock cubes, a handful of salt, and some dried Baobab leaves.

 Serve in traditional Gambian style on a large platter with the rice, making sure that each person knows where their area of the plate is. If you don't have enough spoons because an unexpected extra guest appears, eat with your right hand.

Wash up. There was no way we were going to be allowed to help with this. We didn't even ask as that would have been insulting.

Do all this over an open fire, in the African midday heat whilst eight months pregnant, and then do it all again tomorrow, and the next day, and day after.